Sadly, most kohls on the market that claim to be pure and lead free are actually not. Moreover, some of them have been found to contain harmful substances like talc that may be dangerous when used regularly.
Hence, it is important to understand the difference between true Ithmid kohl and other types of kohl.
Benefits
Kohl is a black pigment used around the eyes for cosmetic enhancement. It is believed to make the eyes appear larger and more attractive, especially for women. It also has cultural and religious significance in many regions.
Historically, the main ingredient of kohl was ground galena (lead sulfide). Artisans would mix it with other materials such as soot and plant oils to achieve different colours. Lead poisoning is detrimental to human health and long term use can cause blindness. Currently, most kohl products sold in western countries do not contain lead. However, a recent study found that kohl bought in Europe contains toxic elements such as antimony and cadmium.
In addition to its cosmetic beauty benefits, Ithmid kohl increases blood flow in the eyes. This increase in blood flow is a beneficial action because it reduces intraocular pressure, which can lead to ocular pathologies like glaucoma. It also has a cooling effect and can help alleviate eye fatigue. Ibn Al Qayyim (may Allah have mercy on him) states that Rasulullah (sallallahu ‘alaihi wa sallam) used to apply kohl to the eyes three times before sleeping.
Ingredients
Kohl (also known as surma, kajal and Qwalli) is a cosmetic that is commonly used in the Middle East, West Africa and South Asia. It is composed of lead sulphide that can be harmful if not treated properly & may cause eye diseases if inhaled.
Historically, Egyptians made kohl by crushing raw galena with a pestle and mortar to form a fine powder. They would then apply the powder to their eyes using a stick. Archeological excavations reveal jars of kohl in some tombs.
Recently, kohl-based cosmetics purchased in Europe were analyzed by portable XRF to determine the presence of toxic elements and heavy metals. Results showed that Pb concentrations were more than twice the permitted limit in most samples. In addition, cadmium and arsenic were detected as well. The lack of quality control and the illegal trade in these products should be a matter of serious concern. It is important to purchase kohl that is pure Ithmid kohl which can be sourced by asking the seller to provide proof of where the ithmid stone was mined.
Uses
In addition to its cosmetic effect on the eyes, Kohl has cultural and religious significance. In some cultures it is believed to ward off the evil eye and protect against negative energies. It is also thought to be a cooling and soothing agent on the eyes. Kohl is also used in desert regions to shield the eyes from harsh sunlight, dust and sand.
The Prophet Muhammad sallallahu ‘alaihi wa sallam was a firm advocate of the use of Kohl. He would apply it to his eyes before sleeping and encouraged all believers to follow this Sunnah. Sayyidina Ibn ‘Abbaas Radiyallahu ‘Anhu reported that the Prophet sallallahu ‘alaihi wo sallam used to carry around kohl made of ithmid (antimony) and said: “Use this, for it brightens the vision and strengthens and increases the growth of the eyelashes.”
A sample of 23 kohl products bought from retailers in Europe were analyzed with portable XRF and SEM-EDXS using JEOL JSM-7001F and its EDXS capability. Aluminosilicates and Si-Mg compounds could be identified as the primary ingredients in many samples. The presence of cadmium was also recorded in some samples.
Precautions
Kohl is a dark cosmetic powder applied to the eyes for cosmetic effect, and also used to protect the skin from sun exposure. A variety of different materials may be used to produce kohl, some of which are hazardous to health when not prepared in accordance with established safety standards.
Lead kohl can cause lead poisoning in young children which can manifest as anemia and may be associated with growth retardation, reduced IQ, convulsions or death. In one study, the application of kohl to an infant’s skin increased their blood lead levels significantly.
The ancient Egyptians and Bedouins would grind the mineral galena with a pestle and mortar, then sift through a screen to separate out the fine particles. They then mixed the powder with animal fats, oils or waxes and carved a small pointy stick to use as an applicator. It was the desert dwellers that used the kohl the most as it protected them from sun-induced eye problems, which are mainly caused by UV radiation that can bleach the retina and cause cataracts.pure Kohl
